A 600 FICO score is classified as "fair" and is generally considered subprime, according to creditcards.com. You'll qualify for some credit cards, but the terms will be tighter than what prime borrowers see. The good news is that 600 is a recoverable score. The bad news is that the further you fall below 670, the more time and discipline the recovery takes.
If you're at 600, the goal isn't to chase rewards. It's to demonstrate consistent credit behavior over the next year or two.
The short version
- FICO considers 670 to 739 to be "good"; 600 falls in the "fair" range of 580 to 669
- Subprime classification means higher APRs, lower credit limits, and possibly deposit requirements
- 90% of lenders use the FICO model, per creditcards.com
- Several card products target this range: secured cards, starter cards, and a handful of unsecured options
- Late payments, collections and high utilization are the most common 600-score causes
What a 600 score actually means
At 600, you are below what most lenders consider "good." Lenders see you as a riskier borrower, and the terms reflect that. Expect higher interest rates on any new card, lower credit limits, and denials on the most rewarding products.
A 600 score rarely comes from having no credit history at all. Based on creditcards.com's reporting, the figure usually traces back to missed payments or debts that have gone to collections, unless you are brand new to borrowing.
The path back to 670 is straightforward on paper. Pay every bill on time for the next stretch of months, knock down any high balances on existing cards, and avoid opening multiple new accounts in a short window. The execution is harder than the plan, because the habits that produced 600 are usually habits of financial stress.
Card options at 600
You are not shut out of the card market. Several issuers design products for the fair-credit range.
The Discover it Secured Credit Card is a strong secured pick. Your deposit sets your credit line, the account reports to the bureaus like a normal card, and Discover matches the cash back you earn at the end of your first year. The catch is the upfront deposit.
Capital One's QuicksilverOne stands out because it does not require a deposit, which is unusual in this score band. It earns unlimited cash back, charges no foreign transaction fees, and carries a modest annual fee. The fee is the tradeoff for skipping the security deposit.
Mission Lane's Cash Back Visa is a newer entrant that rewards on-time payment behavior with periodic credit line increases, a real feature for rebuilders. The exact cash back tier is shown after approval.
Petal's "Cash Back, No Fees" Visa targets people still learning how credit works. It carries no annual fee, no foreign transaction fee, and no penalty fees for late or returned payments. Cash back starts modest and climbs after a stretch of on-time activity.
Why this matters
The right card at 600 is the one that reports to all three bureaus, charges little or nothing in annual fees, and does not require a security deposit unless you can't get approved otherwise. Reward rates are secondary at this stage. The job is to rebuild the score.
Most rebuilders open two or three cards at once. That is a mistake. The hard inquiries and the new accounts ding the score, and the combined credit limits create spending temptation. One card, used lightly and paid in full each month, is the cleaner plan.
The other common mistake is canceling the card once the score recovers. Closing an account shortens your credit history and reduces your total available credit, both of which can pull the score back down. Keep the card open and put a small recurring charge on autopay.
Our analysis
The fastest path from 600 to 670 is a year-plus plan built around on-time payments and low utilization. Adding a secured or starter card in the first month helps, but only if you use it sparingly and never carry a balance.
If you have open collections on your report, decide whether to pay them or dispute them. Resolved collections look better than open ones for the score, but the record can stay on the report for several years. Disputes are useful mainly when the underlying data is wrong.
The "new credit" factor also matters. Every application is a hard inquiry and a fresh account. Both can lower the score in the short term. The new account helps the score only if it stays in good standing. At this range, one application every six months is plenty.
A worked example
Say you carry a balance on a card with a 5,000 credit limit, and a single late payment from more than a year ago is dragging your score. You open a secured card with a modest deposit, charge one small recurring bill to it, and pay it off in full each month. Over the next year, your utilization falls, the late payment ages, and the score typically climbs into a healthier band.
What to watch next
If you landed at 600 because of a one-time event, the recovery is faster. If you landed there because of a long pattern of carrying balances, the recovery is slower but the same playbook applies. The single highest-use move is your next on-time payment.
Key takeaways
- 600 is subprime, not unscoreable; you have card options, just narrower ones
- A secured card or QuicksilverOne is a sensible starting point
- One card, paid in full monthly, beats opening several at once
Frequently asked questions
Can I get a rewards card with a 600 score?
Possibly. QuicksilverOne is one of the real rewards options in this band, though it carries an annual fee.
How long does it take to recover from 600 to 670?
Typically a year or more of consistent on-time payments and reduced utilization.
Should I pay off collections before applying for new credit?
Generally yes if you can afford to. Resolved collections look better than open ones, even if the record stays on the report.
Is a secured card reported differently from a regular card?
Most major secured cards, including Discover it Secured, report as regular credit cards to the bureaus.
Will closing my oldest card hurt my recovery?
Yes. Closing an account shortens credit history and lowers total available credit, both of which can drag the score back down.